By Your Brand Team November 15, 2024
Choosing the wrong fabric is the #1 reason clothing brands lose money on their first production run. In this guide, we break down everything you need to know before placing a wholesale fabric order.
1. Fiber Content: Cotton, Polyester, or Blends?
100% Cotton — Breathable, soft, great for t-shirts and casual wear. Downsides: higher shrinkage (5-8%), wrinkles easily, and costs more.
100% Polyester — Durable, wrinkle-resistant, cheap. Ideal for sportswear and outdoor gear. Downsides: not breathable, can feel “plastic” against skin.
Cotton/Poly Blends (60/40 or 50/50) — The sweet spot for most brands. You get cotton’s comfort with polyester’s durability and lower shrinkage (2-3%).
2. Weight (GSM) Matters More Than You Think
| GSM Range | Best For | Season |
|---|---|---|
| 120-160 gsm | Summer t-shirts, layering | Spring/Summer |
| 180-220 gsm | Year-round t-shirts, hoodies | All seasons |
| 240-300+ gsm | Winter hoodies, sweatpants | Autumn/Winter |
Pro tip: If you’re selling in multiple climates, 180 gsm is the most versatile weight for year-round sales.
3. Shrinkage Testing: Don’t Skip This
Always request a wash test report from your supplier. Industry standard:
- Pre-shrunk cotton: ≤ 3% shrinkage
- Regular cotton: 5-8% shrinkage
- Polyester blends: ≤ 2% shrinkage
If your supplier can’t provide test data, send a 1m sample to a third-party lab (SGS, Bureau Veritas). It costs $50-100 but can save you thousands in returns.
4. Hand Feel and Finish
The same cotton fabric can feel completely different depending on the finish:
- Combed cotton — smoother, softer, premium feel
- Open-end cotton — rougher, cheaper, bulkier
- Mercerized cotton — silky sheen, color-fast, higher cost
For premium brands, always specify “combed” in your tech pack.
5. MOQ and Pricing Strategy
Most Chinese fabric mills have a 1,000-3,000 yard MOQ. If you need less, ask about “stock fabric” — mills often have leftover rolls from larger orders at 20-30% discount.
Cost benchmarks (2024, FOB China):
- 180 gsm combed cotton jersey: $2.80-3.50/kg
- 200 gsm 60/40 cotton/poly fleece: $3.20-4.00/kg
- 150 gsm 100% polyester mesh: $2.00-2.80/kg
Need Help Sourcing?
Our team helps brands source the right fabric, run lab tests, and manage production from sample to bulk. Contact us for a free consultation.